By P. Surendran
It was
below the three hundred and sixty-fifth step that Natarajan met Edwina. She was
nervous while standing in front of the she elephant that blessed the devotees.
One by one the pilgrims placed coins on the trunk of the elephant and made
obeisance with folded hands, received the elephant's blessings and went past
her. Edwina asked something to the mahout who knew little English. So he,
clapping his hands, called out to Natarajan who was about to ascend the steps.
Natarajan
asked Edwina what she had said to the mahout.
She
wanted the elephant to touch her head with its trunk, she said. But she was
frightened.
"Will
you please stand by me?" She asked Natarajan.
As he
stood closer to Edwina, he accidentally touched a part of her body which was
not covered by her scanty summer wear. He moved away from her as if he had an
electric shock. By then the elephant had already blessed her.
"There
are 365 steps," Natarajan said to Edwina while giving her chappals for
safekeeping.
"Really?!
I like steps very much. The sky that emerges high above as one climbs a flight
of stairs has an ethereal beauty."
"But
for us this is not merely a ladder to watch the sky from. Each step is a hymn,
and once we climb these steps we are absolved of the sins of a whole year.
Hence we come here year after year."
"Sins?
What kind of sins?" Edwina enquired.
"The
minor cheating and lies that we are forced to indulge just to eke out a living.
You see, after all we are from The Third World."
Edwina
could see the misery writ large on his face as he spoke.
"So
what? Spiritually you have achieved dizzy heights. See, all your pilgrim
centres are atop hills."
"You
Europeans can't comprehend our misery. The time when we really need to cry
before the gods old age won't allow us to climb these steps." Natarajan
pointed to a group of people standing at the bottom of the flight of steps
bewailing their fate with folded hands.
"Let's
climb the steps."
She
ran up some steps and stopped.
"D'you
have any mantra to chant while ascending
each step?"
"I
told you, for us each stone step itself is a prayer and a mantra?"
As
they climbed the step Edwina asked his name.
"Natarajan,"
he said.
"Natarajan?!"
All of a sudden a strange expression lit her face. Then she began to talk about
the cosmic dance. Her curiosity to fathom the depths of Indianness astounded
Natarajan.
He had
never paid any attention to the profoundity of his name. But for Edwina he was
Lord Shiva himself. And Natarajan became nervous when she began to ask
questions as if he were Lord Shiva.
"I
merely bear the name of Nataraja. I can't dance even a single step. Let's talk
about something else," he said.
Then
she became a river that flows paying obeisance to the great temples.
"While
standing before your sculptures I feel ashamed of our own culture. It is a
sham."
"Oh
no! There is no need to feel inferior. You too have temples built on hill
tops." He said.
Based
on the knowledge he had acquired from reading, he told her about Acropolis, the
city goddess of Athens, Baroque, the beauty of Bennini's Daphen and the like.
But there was little twinkle in Edwina's eyes while Natarajan went in with this
explanation.
"I've
not been to Greece but I know that the
stones of Europe have been erected without any meditation. But your sculptures and temples seem to have been
resurrected through meditation."
She
discarded Baroque also.
"Everything
is built in marble. All that glossiness soon seems disgusting. The eyes slip
away from it. D'you realise what is lost when a statue is very smooth? I don't
like such whiteness either."
Suddenly,
placing a finger on Natarajan's cheek Edwina asked, "Can I become tanned
like this? Won't I become dark if I wander in your land for a long time?"
Once
again he got nervous. But hiding his feelings, he asked, "What will you do
after becoming dark complexioned?"
"I'll
wear a silk sari, put on bindi..."
Natarajan
completed it, "Then you will marry a Tamilian and live in a hut on the
banks of Kaveri, won't you?"
Edwina
smiled. That smile fascinated him. These
white folk are sometimes driven to
frenzy, he thought. He remembered the French girl who lived with the leper
Krishna on the dry banks of the river
Vaigai. She was Krishna's Radha, she believed.
The
girl had seen droplets of blood on his
gnawed fingers and felt that his fingers were blossoming. When she visited Rameshwaram with her boyfriend Krishna had
been their guide, a person with some knowledge of yoga and who spoke awkward
English. Now that Radha is in search of a land where she could create a Vrindavan
for her Lord.
This
too is another of the many enigmas of the whites, "It's typical of you
crazy whites," Natarajan said.
"You
can't understand the beauty of black," Edwina retorted angrily.
The
steps ended. Upon the vastness of the flat rock stood the roofless temple.
"We're
completely purged of a year's sins," said Natarajan.
Edwina
stood deep in meditation looking up at the blue sky.
"Is
there an idol inside?" She asked.
"Nothing.
Only a Shivalingam."
"Why
there is no roof?"
"There
is the blue sky for a roof."
"Then
he told her about going round the temple. This had always amazed him.
Passing
the tower with its huge sculptures, going round it once, again passing the
entrance, going round the silent stone pillars, one finally reaches the sanctum-sanctorum.
Looking
through the open door one saw a Shivalingam glowing in the light of a lamp. A
meditative journey from the concrete to the
abstract!
"Everything
has a philosophical significance for you."
Sunlight
gleamed on her face.
They
sat under the tree in the temple courtyard to rest. A short distance away a village family was having its
repast. She watched them for a while.
Intermittently she sighed.
"This
is a dream that cannot be fulfilled in
my soil."
After
that whatever she said was like a plea. Love devoid of spirituality, children who fly away from
their mothers soon after they are weaned. Old
destined to watch the heavy snowfall on the window panes of old age
homes. While talking about the nomadic
existence ,bearing the curse of civilisation where in life has become an
overloaded dining table, tears welled up in Edwina's eyes. When he felt she
would burst into tears Natarajan got up.
"Come
on. Let's go round the Shivalingam.
When
the sun falling on top become scorching hot they went down the steps. Edwina
complained that she still hadn't had her
fill of the sky.
While
descending the steps Edwina started
talking about the cosmic dance. Natarajan fell silent.
"Have
you read The Dance of Shiva?"
Suddenly
Natarajan felt dizzy. Moving to the side
he pressed his forehead against the cold stone wall.
Edwina
put a hand on his shoulders.
"What's
the matter, Natarajan?"
She
began chanting his name like a mantra. He flew into rage.
"Don't
talk about the dance of Shiva. If you do, I'll faint down on this step.
After
sitting for a while on the step they climbed down. The elephant was down there
deep in a slumber. Instead of the aroma of the sky, the stench of horse dung
and decayed Jamanti flowers filled their nostrils.
When
they reached the last step, it was parting time for them. As he stood looking
at the steps leading upwards not knowing what to say, Edwina asked him,
"Shall I come with you?"
"No,
I have a wife and children. This soul and body is to be shared with only one in
a lifetime. This too is our philosophy."
Natarajan
pointed his forefinger skyward. Edwina
stood looking at the sky. He went down to the street filled with horse dung.
As she
stood looking at the blue sky a little boy touched her. He had some handicrafts
with him mainly images of Natarajan and Shivalingas. Miniatures made of cheap
granite.
Edwina
bought a Shivalingam. Without asking the price, she gave him some money and
climbed down the steps.
(Translated from the original in Malayalam by Sudhakaran)